Name: Jim
email: jhubbard56@comcast.net
subject:
Since Jim has asked nicely several times, here is a picture of my main sheet setup (being modeled by little Megan :) . Please note that this picture is totally staged and the boat is indeed in my driveway without the mast up, but you'll get the idea. This setup is pretty simple and easy to convert. You shouldn't need to drill many if any new holes in the hull. I use a piece of single braid spectra as a bridle which attaches to a single block in the middle of the line. The ends are attached to the pad eyes with sliding splices (we'll get to that later). The floating block attaches to the main sheet which goes forward to a head knocker. Simple.
So why would you do this? The original block system on the SJ works, but it has some real drawbacks. First it tends to get tangled a lot. Second, there is no real way to control the leach tension in the main. You get what you get. Generally that means too much tension in light winds and not enough tension in high winds or when reaching.
This simple bridle system gives little leach tension until the sail reaches centerline and then it pulls directly downward. So to make up for that you use the vang to help control the sail shape (which is something people should do more of anyway). I recommend running the vang control back so you can adjust it from the cockpit to make things a bit easier.
Now back to the sliding splices on the pad eyes. You don't need to do this, but it is helpful (I sailed most of last year without it). With the sliding splice you can adjust the location of the floating block for different wind conditions. It's hard to do this on the fly, but you can do it while going downwind pretty easily. You can adjust the lines longer and make the floating block really high. This gives you a great sheeting angle for light winds and lets you get less leach tension than a traveler setup. As the wind comes up you can move the sliding splices to lower the floating block. This has the same effect as lowering the traveler. However, there is a limit to how low you can get the block and it doesn't adjust quickly, so that is why you need to use the vang as well. You never 'need' to change the position though, it just makes the sail easier to trim.
The system is simple, cheap, and weighs almost nothing. It also keeps the cockpit completely free of obstructions. No traveler bar, no cleats to sit on, nothing. The only thing in my cockpit is the backstay adjuster which is lead off of the old main sheet cleat on the floor. I've had a lot of success with this setup and have no intention to change anything. Keep it simple and keep your head up.
Bob Abelin
MK I #714
I've taken Bob's one picture and cropped, resized and cut it into 4 parts, hopefully for better viewing. If anyone wants the really large original, contact me. - Jim
The Boss
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