San Juan 21 Class Association

Well, my re-rig has evolved into a complete refit. I brought my boat home and it fit inside my garage, so the gloves were off. I have completely stripped the deck and plan on cleaning up all figerglass issues and compounding the whole boat, then re-seating the hardware, mostly with new stuff. I also found my trailer was worse off than i thought; so new springs, seals, lights and hardware there too. I am really enjoying all the work, but to my question:

My starboard bow chock is missing one of the fasteners. I can't find the back half, so am I to assume it is a screw and not a bolt? if not, how do I access the nut? If a screw, would I just do the ol' fill with epoxy and re-drill trick?

Oh yeah. I am also replacing my bulkheads with 1/4"x3" aluminum flat stock a la Bill (Krysia Ry). I ordered the material today and will take pictures and do a write up as a resource. i think this conversion makes a lot of sense and i got the materials for just under $50. I plan on cutting it and drilling holes myself, then taking it to an aluminum welder.

cheers,

kuriti

HI Kuriti, The bow chocks on Krysia Ry, a Mk III, are nutted and entombed in glass, something I found out when re-bedding. I had to use a chisel to cut in to the glass inside the cabin.
Good luck
Bill
Ps Oh and they are not spaced the same from starboard to larboard from the deck/hull seam.

Krysia Ry wrote:HI Kuriti, The bow chocks on Krysia Ry, a Mk III, are nutted and entombed in glass, something I found out when re-bedding. I had to use a chisel to cut in to the glass inside the cabin.
Good luck
Bill
Ps Oh and they are not spaced the same from starboard to larboard from the deck/hull seam.

Lots of the SJ21's deck hardware is this way. I think they put it on before assembling the deck to the hull, then (rare for a price-point boat of this era) they glassed over the whole hull-to-deck joint, including lots of the nuts.

Hey Kuriti: are you planning to lead your controls back to the cockpit? We did that this year on our Mk1 & it sure is sweet. We used a Garhauer mast plate and I modified one of the roof racks from my Toyota van to span the hatch. It keeps the decks clear and minimizes the number of turns.

I am going to stay in denial about the chock bolt for now. i will fix it when i get back to the deck hardware.

Diarmuid, I am going to lead everything aft. Your set up looks sweet. I had been planning on using an aluminum plate on teak risers, but haven't completely made up my mind on how to mount them. I figure as i get to resetting the deck hardware, i will make those decisions. Do you still have the model number for that deck plate? i intend to install a mast organizer and haven't decided which one.

Current(ly), I am working on the wiring. it sucks. i don't like electricity except when it powers the stuff i am addicted to. I have 'sailboat electronics simplified' by Don Casey, but i guess i am more simple than the average reader. I would like to integrate the plate for the switches and fuses, but i have to find replacement switches and fuse tubes(?) that will fit the hole. i am headed to harbor freight today to get connectors, crimping tool, etc. This too would make a good instructable. i expect my electronics will be more complicated than the racers as i expect music, running/cabin lights and ability to charge phones/tablets. I have already bought some poly planer 3" speakers and a mini-marine amplifier. i am hooking the 3.5mm input on the amp to a bluetooth receiver and will manage music through my phone. My battery is on the way, i got a 55AH AGM battery and a battery tender for power.

Lots going on, but all fun. I got a cold yesterday, so i am slowing a bit....

cheers,

kuriti

Mast plate is model MS1:

http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=68

It fits the SJ21 mast base PERFECTLY, tho threading the hinge pin becomes a bit trickier. Typical Garhauer construction, which is to say 'massively overbuilt.' Lots and lots of holes. Nice bonus: put the pointy end aft and you have a vang attachment point much better than the on-mast bail.

We ran the lines over the hatchway cuz, well, what are you using that space for anyhow? Serious deck reinforcement is advised if putting multiple controls on a crossbar. We had the core out anyhow, so I glued in some 1/2" phenolic plates under the bar, winches, and between the mast base and compression post. Clark just had balsa under the mast. That didn't work so good. Lessee:3# per square inch compressive strength, times 15 square inches, assume 500# downforce on the loaded mast.... Can't imagine why the mast plate leaked.

Ain't going to compress phenolic. The bottom of the boat will tear out before that mast step leaks again.

Your deck looks great. I also have a bridge over the hatch for all the control lines and halyards. Only way to go for my style of sailing. only mine is a bit agricultural in comparison, but it is functional.

From left to right on my bridge I have the main halyard cleat (main is actually on a halyard lock. This is a back up cleat),jib halyard, center is the vang, Cunningham, spin halyard, and topping lift. Can be a bit of load at times. The bridge is 1/8 inch stainless steel and through bolted. So far so good.

It is great to see all the passion San Juan21 owners have in updating and getting their boats to look great. For every hour of sailing how many hours do you think you have working on the boat. I know I am at least at every hour I sail I have at least an hour messing with stuff on the boat. And it may be more like 2 to 1 if I really thought about it. I need to work on that in 2012 and sail more!

I think I have almost as much fun tinkering with things as I do racing the boat. Even wrote and maintain my own tuning guide to help me remember everything. Good theroputic excercise after a long day at work to clear the brain.

Dan Bornarth
Black Jack #2403
Fleet 8

Three-to-one boatwork/sailing ratio seems to be the consensus. In places like New England or Wyoming or Wisconsin, with long winters, it may be higher. But that's one reason Maine boats are generally better-looking than Florida boats. Less time on the water, more evenings in the barn, polishing teak.

Our controls from left to right go: Spinnaker and/or drifter halyard (these are swapped from the mast as needed, spi being fractional and drifter masthead); pole topping lift; cunningham; forward reefing line; main halyard. Reefing is sooo much easier when you don't have to go on deck. Brace yourself against the bulkhead, pop the two starboard lines, ease halyard as you pull the reef down to the boom, cleat both. Aft reefing line cleats on the boom, right at your shoulder. We can throw in a reef in 15 seconds, never leaving the cockpit.

BTW, I really like our longer jib tracks, too. One weakness of the SJ21 is the tendency of the jib to twist off on reaches, in part because you just can't get the cars forward far enough. Our new tracks are 30" long, about 2" more travel aft and the rest forward. We still need to play with outhauls on broader reaches. I added sidedeck cleats that could turn barberhauler.

Also BTW: the grey paint on the deck is Kiwigrip anti-skid paint. Possibly the best upgrade we've done on the boat. If your non-skid is tired, KG is an affordable and easy way to refresh it. We did an aggressive texture on the decks, and a suede finish on the benches and coamings. The SJ21 coamings are slick as ice!

I need to work on my non skid. Looked into the kiwigrip but really interested to hear a first hand report. Need to check it out again as the non skid on the cockpit and bow deck is getting a bit worn. My wife will get real made at me if my bowman ( 13 yr old daughter) falls off the boat! And my othe crew- 11 yr old son has been complaining about slipping in the cockpit.

Once the weather breaks and temps get up a little it is time to drag the boat home and start my winter projects.

Dan Bornarth
Black Jack #2403
Fleet 8