Mark Sailmaker -Hi

[Mark Sailmaker]

Good to be able to have a spot like this - many thanks to Kris and Tom for their work. I've been racing in the Class since 1997 or so. I know in some circles that makes me something of a newbie...Most of the time I race with Mike on Joyride, #2577 but a couple years ago I had the chance to pick up #2. I swore I wouldn't get a boat unless it was a single digit (figuring that I'd never travel to the West Coast from Eastern NC to trailer a boat back) since I have such a good time with Mike. Turns out a couple from Washington dragged #2 to Virginia when they moved! Their lake was too small for a 21, so here we are. I have to finish changing out the keel since the original, pristine keel only goes down to 54 degrees - a serious disadvantage for windward work. Got a beauty for sail if you need a keel and don't race.....Almost done with that swap and itching to get the boat wet again. Hopefully have it ready by the North Americans here this summer. Make plans to come out. More info elsewhere on the site.

[Krysia Ry]

Hallooo Mark Sailmaker, I'm dying to get my boat out and try out those sails I got from ya. Weather out here in BC is getting nice and today had winds 15 gusting to 27 knots but my boat is on the hard still. Not for long. All the best with #2
Bill Sj 2576

[No Excuse]

Mark

Did you have to do anything to #2 to get the new keel to fit or did it just go right in without any adjustments or modification? I have # 17 and have the same situation. Would appreciate some insite to the process. Thanks

[Mark Sailmaker]

The biggest issue is the thickness of the keel versus the width of the slot and keel box. Like most boats built at the time, strict quality control was a concept, not a practice adhered to...the replacement keel I was able to find was thicker than the slot in the bottom - this necessitated some rather drastic grinding and re-glassing - not an enterprise to be taken up lightly. Best to make all the measurements first and get something that will fit without modification. The Class Handbook has the dimensions and profile drawings for the "new" keel. Note well the distance from the upper forward "square" corner of the head to the bolt in the head that holds the cable block - this is the critical measurement as that head rests on the stop bolt to control the keel angle. The bolt should be 2 1/4" down the trailing edge from the top of the keel - more than that and the keel won't go down all the way. The pivot bolt hole lined up fine - no worries there...biggest issue is finding a keel at all - I got somewhat lucky - got a keel without buying a boat!