Initial Spreadsheet check

[kuriti]

Edit: i tried to imbed the images, but couldn't get it to work. so, the Flicker links below are the spreadsheets.

Okay everybody, please check my initial run at getting all this into one place to get my head around it. I got all prices for standing rigging from these guys, including what i guess is a 7.50 flat charge per swage. I haven't spoken to them in person, so the labor cost could be wrong, but all the hardware came from their price sheet:

http://www.riggingandhardware.com/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/71413822@N04/6455145707/

I got all the measurements from my current rig stretched out in the drive way. it was pulled as taught as an 8 yr old can, so straight, but not under load. The price of one sta loc fork was about $25, so i stopped there on the comparison. My OCD friend actually said i would be a fool to attempt swagging myself versus having a professional do it, so i owe him an apology. i agree with that now and with yall's input, it seems the the compression is actually better, but cost prohibitive.

Also, here are my guestimates on running rigging. I put the jib downhaul in yellow becuase i want your opinion on whether that is long enough run to the cockpit. I used the forestay length plus the length of the boat. Also, the stock Mainsheet is 55 feet, but i intend to switch to a headknocker. how long are the mainsheets for that system, if anyone knows. Prices came from the defender website here:

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?pa ... &id=913347

http://www.flickr.com/photos/71413822@N04/6455145797/

Please check all my numbers and let me know if i am missing anything. i can upload the excel sheet once it gets right for all to use.

thanks!

Kuriti

[Diarmuid]

Re: running rigging. Jib downhaul can be very thin; topping lift and main downhaul can be 3/16"; outhaul can be 1/8", tho 3/16" is easier to handle. For halyards, I HATE halyard creep & advise splurging for some hi-tech core, like Technora or NE Ropes' VPC. Stronger, 30% lighter, half the stretch of XLS. Can be used as a shroud or stay in a pinch. Defender has generally good prices, but cordage is not one of their discount areas. You may be able to piece together line from several discounters, like Milwaukee Rigging

http://www.ebay.com/sch/mkerig101/m.htm ... 4340.l2562

or my personal favorite, these guys:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/roscoef/m.html? ... 4340.l2562

Tho it's nice to buy only the footage you need. If you know exactly the footage you need. BTW, we replaced the keel winch cable with (scant) 1/4" Technora-cored line, an offcut from our halyard. It's very nice.

[kuriti]

Thanks Diarmuid. i was holding off for some more input before i responded, but it got quiet all of a sudden. I will take your advice on the size and type for halyards/downhauls. I will over buy so that i can practice eye splicing with confidence. I know i can buy halyards with eye splices, but i think it my duty to learn. I haven't had a chance to call the rigging company and confirm labor costs, but i already noticed an error in my spreadsheet because i plan to put a 4:1 backstay adjuster, so i won't need a turnbuckle. how long do those of you with this type of adjuster suggest i make the backstay wire?

i got my blocks in for my headknocker conversion today and am psyched. if work would get out of the way of my sailing, i could get the rigging and line ordered damn't!

Once i get all the rigging squared, it will be on to boat cushions and a cover. i plan on taking pictures for both of those and posting how to's as that seems lacking in the SJ21 forum libraries. Later i will be updating electronics including a mini-marine amp, some 3" speakers and a gel cell battery. gotta have tunes!

cheers,

kuriti

[Diarmuid]

Ah. Splicing Vectran or Technora parallel cored line is beyond most amateurs. We just tied ours to the halyard shackle; sure, that compromises strength -- but then the line is rated at something like 4000#, so we didn't worry too much. One additional advantage of a knotted vs. spliced halyard: a long, tapered splice can have a nasty habit of getting jammed in masthead sheaves. Tho you should be okay with 1/4". Splicing double braid can be easy or hard, depending on how tight the construction is. Definitely harder in smaller diameters. The easiest line to splice is 12-strand. You may find a Dyneema cored halyard rope with polyester sheath, which is a good compromise. You just strip the cover on the shackle end, since the core is ridiculously strong (1/4" MaxiBraid checks in at 5100# tensile ).

Really, XLS should be fine for your halyards. I just get annoyed when the luff sags -- usually in strong winds, just when you want it tight.

One thing we have found is how useful it is to use different colors for running rigging. While our new sheet bags have tidied up the cockpit, there are still times we had to think "Is that the mainsheet, or a jib sheet? The Spi Halyard, or the pole topping lift?"

[San Juan Sailboats]

Spectra is a lower cost line. It unfortunately will creep through cam and clam cleats. There is a fix.
I have 3/16 Spectra Halyards with 1/4" Dacron cover spliced in where I handle the line. This gives you a very low stretch line with enough diameter to grab and pull.
I had Gene Adams can make these for me. They cost me about about $80 each, Price may have changed. If you do it yourself, it will cost less.

[San Juan Sailboats]

I also see you are using 1/4" for your jib downhaul. I use 3/16 Dacron Double braid and it works fine.